I’m “getting my bearings” here in Rethymno Crete, for sure it has taken a moment to settle in to such a big city on a big island after being in quiet Amorgos.

But I’m determined to explore this island. I decide to rent a car for 2 days.

I’m thankful to have this bright little car, I will be able to find it and hopefully others will see me! Almost all of the rental cars are little white cars. It’s hard to recognize your assigned car, they all look the same. On the beach in Naxos last week I heard an American couple say that they were following their friends going to a restaurant. Their friends were driving a tiny white car, as were they. But on the way to the restaurant they got behind the wrong little white car. They drove 45 minutes before their friend texted to ask where they were. They followed the wrong white car out in to the middle of the island!

I mentioned in a previous post that I like to ask the hotel staff where they prefer to go in their day off. This is how I meet Katerina at the hotel concierge.

She shares that she has 2 favorite beaches on the south coast. Thank god for Google Maps, guiding me to Armeni Beach. It is natural and lovely with a small taverna.

Katerina also shares her favorite beach bar, Agios Georgios. She shares that it is “a bit far” but her description sounds really cool. No connection to Maps so I’m winging it to get out of the cove I’m in toward Agios Georgios. When Google maps loads I realize I’m over an hour away.

I drive thru their famous gorge, it is so windy the door almost blow off the car.

As I’m driving, listening to Coldplay, I’m thinking: how the fuck did I get to this moment, driving to a place completely off the grid that I’ve never heard of. With no guardrails driving thru the winding mountains. Alone.

Google Maps is guiding me off the main road, down a cliff with a left turn so sharp I have to go in to reverse to make it even in this little car.

I arrive at Agios Georgia beach bar, completely off the travel grid yet every table is taken. Fuck. The staff shared that it is Sunday and the last day before school starts. But it is so funky and authentic I find a place to lay down for lunch. Yes, lay down with a small table for food.

This beach bar…so funky. It sits just above the beach so most people are in their beach gear. Which for Greek men means no shirt. How did I get here?

I sit and read for a while then put my toes in the water, the Libyan Sea. I’m quite certain this will be the closest I will ever be to Libya.

I head back to the north coast with the top down, listening to some music. It is an adrenaline rush including both excitement and anxiety.

For dinner I head into town for dinner where the concierge has made a booking for me at Achinos on the Venetian Harbor. But when I arrive they put me in the worst table, far from the harbour in a corner. This is not unusual for a female solo traveler, I have read multiple posts of women feeling so demeaned when they are put in the worst table, even with a booking from a prestige hotel. The worst is when the host asks how many, and I say ONE and they say “only one????”

I sit and stew for a few minutes then decide to ask for a different table. No, all other tables are reserved. I decide to leave.

I go back to Alana, where I am welcomed and treated with kindness. And a delicious Cretan burratta salad.

This was not an easy day, this typically happens to me at least once on a trip, feeling uncomfortable or uncertain or vulnerable. I also recognize that I’m tired and also probably dehydrated. I’m going to work on that.

The next morning I see Katerina who is keen to see that I am safe after my adventure. She reassures me that she typically doesn’t send people to these unique beaches but she senses I’m up for the adventure. I adore this girl.

She recommends another favorite beach bar, The Salty Goat. I explore the old town a bit then head west along the coast.

Katerina has called ahead and I’m greeted with a beautiful, kind welcome. These small interactions can literally change your day.

For dinner I made a booking months ago at a place called The Secret Gorge for dinner with wine pairings. When the taxi driver pulls in I am literally concerned I got pranked. But he says, yes this is a Secret place.

It is so beautiful. I arrive to meet a couple from Buffalo. The sun is setting and the lighting is amazing.

As the sun sets, the lighting is even more beautiful.

The rest of the group arrives, about 12 people total, and we embark on dinner.

It was a good day. I’m reminded that one day can be so different from the one before or after. Especially with encouragement via text from friends and family. Thank you 🙏

I like you, Rethymno. Maybe not love, but I do like you. You are big and busy and diverse.

Most especially thank you to Katerina who considers me a friend and fellow adventurer!!