Cooking with Ms Irene

On the ferry ride from Naxos I meet Ms Irene, quite accidentally. When we met briefly she shared that she “worked at Aegialis Hotel”, where I am staying. Later I find out that she and her husband Nick built this beautiful hotel.

In the hotel van from the port, I also share that I would love to do a cooking class while I’m in Amorgos. Little do I know that she has written a cookbook and does a cooking class at our hotel. I’m in!

I love these cooking classes, not just to learn about their cooking. These classes allow me to learn so much about their culture. This is especially true for this class with Ms Irene. She shares that her grandparents came from Amorgos. After 10 years living in the US, she and her husband came back in the mid 80s. She shares photos from the 60s and 70s, there is no road and virtually no town. Her husband has a vision for this hilltop hotel. Their hotel is now a thriving resort, with a spa that attracts people from all over the world. It’s inspiring to hear her story. She and her husband have worked very, very hard.

A great place for a Greek cooking class!

We make Tzatziki, Fava Bean dip (think Hummas but made with Fava), Fava Croquettes, Spinach Pies, Sweet pies and Loukoumades (Greek donuts). It is a ridiculous amount of food.

Tzatziki and Fava Croquettes aka Fritters

She doesn’t really measure but constantly reassures, it is fine. “There is always a solution” she says. We talk about how resourceful Greek women have been, being completely self sufficient here. They find ways to create a totally organic diet because they need to. They typically rely on a small portion of meat or fish. They are always ready for guests or neighbors.

I cherish our experience together, although I am thoroughly stuffed after.

We share a delicious lunch!

This is my last full day in Amorgos, and my trip is at the halfway mark. I’m happy but also a bit tired. This is usual for me at this point in the trip. Always moving and thinking about logistics. I’m happy to spend the afternoon reading by the pool.

For dinner I’m going back to Chora, the main village in Amorgos. The van that takes me is driving up into the mountains around hairpin turns. I’m glad I’m not driving. We going from sea level to 800 meters. I “think” that is about 2400 feet? I feel my ears pop and try to stay occupied talking to the driver during the 40 minute drive each way .

As with all the villages, narrow walkways with hidden cafes and bars. The town is pretty quiet, only a few visitors left. I see some girls that I met a few days ago, we compare travel notes.

I’m winding down on this island, it’s been a great experience. Every day has brought a surprise and gift.

Sharing some photos and moments, acknowledging a few from the hotel staff:

I’m preparing for my noon departure for a ferry to Crete. I’ll be leaving the peace and quiet of this place for the madness of the ferry, including a 2 hour layover in Santorini.

But before I go, a coffee and yogurt on the beach below my hotel. I barely figure out how to get there via a stone path, but it’s a good place to finish my book and my stay here,